Raw 1.5 User instructions
A raw machine is more than just a hobby machine and can cut quickly and in good precision. However, there is a reason why a Raw machine costs a fraction of what an industry machine costs. The difference is that the user must be present when the machine is working to replace the cutting heads, etc.
Errors may occur when you cut but most often the errors are caused by the user or software. This guide goes through how best to work with your machine.
Unpack the machine and install the loose parts, follow the instructions on our site. It is important that all labeled parts are screwed into the correct place, since everything has different dimensions.
The machine must stand flat and preferably high so that you can work more easily with the machine. It is very important that the table you choose is straight and horizontal. If the table is oblique, it will affect the machine performance.
The machine has moving parts, and these may hurt you or others. Be careful not to have children near you while working with the machine. It is easy for children to touch moving parts of curiosity and can therefore be seriously injured if fingers get stuck. You are completely responsible for security.
Plugging all the cables into your machine. The cables are marked, and it is very important that everything is right.
The electronics should be under the table to protect it from dust. Don’t cover the ventilation holes of the box. Mount the spindle inverter on the wall or where you can access it.
Reset the machine or Zero the axis
In Mach3 make sure RESET does not flash, then click Ref All Home. Now the machine starts to look for the switches and if everything goes well, the machine has found all the switches after a while. This machine calibrates itself to be 90 degrees at all time, if the machine is not 90 degrees (measure from side plate to corner plate on each side) then you might need to move one of the side switches until its perfect. Move a switch and do the Ref All Home until you get it right. When the home feature is done then make sure the coordinates is set to Zero before you begin. Like in the picture. Note that the Z-axis is 9mm above the surface in this picture, this meens that the cutting head is 9mm above the work piece. If i lower the cutting heat so that it touches the surface and reset the Z-axis aswell then the machine will start from there. See text below picture.
Touch off plate (New from 2018)
We have updated the touch off plate, or zeroing plate so that you can zero all axes to find your absolute zero point. Previously, we could only zero the height but now we can also zero the X and Y axis. We have designed the plate with small holes so that you can choose to start from the corner of the material or 1 cm into the material. Plug in the cable for the touch off plate plate.
To zero the X and Y axis (right, left and back, forth) you must have a 4mm or 3mm end mill. Do not start the spindle when performing this operation! Lower the end mill into one of the holes so that they are approximately 2mm below the hole. Then click on the “Auto tool Zero” button. You will be asked what axis you like to zero. Enter one (1) for X, Y axis and press ok. The end mill is now looking for the edges to find the center of the hole, you can hold the plate in place with your fingers but be careful. When the process is complete, you can jog up the Z axis and remove the tool. Now you have an absolute zero for the X and Y axis.
Now you can also choose to zero the Z axis (height). Move the plate a little aside so that the end mill is not over a hole. Then click on the “Auto tool Zero” button. Enter six (6) and then ok. Be prepared to stop the machine with the “Reset” button if something goes wrong. Now the end mill seeks to the plate and as soon as it hits the plate, the end mill will go up again, while the end mill goes up, remove the plate. The end mill will turn and go down to the height of the material. If you do not remove the plate, the end mill will try to go through the plate. Now when you read your coordinates, then X and Y should be zero, while the Z axis is around +4,000. Click the zero Z button to the left of the Z coordinate to reset it too. Now your machine is completely reset. Try this a few times but be careful.
Why is it good to have an absolute zero point?
If you want to cut into an already existing material and have a hole exactly in the center for example, it would be very difficult to find it manually. If you have an absolute zero point, then the machine knows exactly where it is and will find the center over and over again. As a carpenter, you have templates to do this, so the zeroing plate works a bit like a template telling the machine where the piece starts. As an example, if you draw a square and a hole exactly 10 cm away from the corner of your square, then the touch off plate, or zeroing plate will tell the machine where the corner begins with a precision of about 1/10mm. It would be difficult to manually place the end mill above the corner and therefore we use this plate.
Inverter and spindle
If you have inverter and spindle as an option, you can control the speed and take full advantage of your cutting settings.
To start the spindle, press Run and to stop press Stop. The “for” lamp means that the cutter rotates in the correct direction while “Rev” rotates the cutter in the other direction. Keep an eye on this so that the end mill does not rotate in the wrong direction when cutting your pieces.
If you want to change the speed of the spindle, you can choose between 0-24000 rpm. Approx. 12,000 rpm are good for aluminum and 18000 rpm are good for MDF with an end mill 3-6mm. Here you can experiment until you find the right speed for what you cut. The rule is that it should not get too hot, so that the end mill will burn.
To change speed: (All inverters are different, and we refer to the Instructions)
Start the spindle and let it run until it reaches the maximum speed. If you want to change speed, click the up or down arrow so that you see a value between 0-400. Changing this value changes the speed of the spindle. 400 means 24000 rpm and 200 means half of it etc.
Use the two arrow keys to move the cursor as well as the up and down arrows to enter the value. After your selection, click PRGM and the setting is saved even if you turn off the inverter.
Try your machine
Go to article “http://rawcnc.com/how-to-cut-with-good-results/” to read about the softwares and settings
These machines are quite maintenance-free, but there may be a gap between various ball bearings, rack bars, etc. If you notice that the machine is cutting differently, you can examine on each part and see if it’s moving. As a rule, nothing should move when the power is on.
Contact us for support if problems arise.
You can also make it easy for you when attaching the workpiece. This is not done by default as everyone works differently with the machine. However, if you want the machine to cut square sheets in MDF, plywood or similar, we recommend that you do the following.
As you can see in the picture below, we have glued and nailed a 90-degree corner of plain pine. It’s exactly 90 degrees in relation to the X-axis. We have also drilled small holes where we can attach a coarse screw with a small washer. These washers will force the workpiece to the corner and we also take the help of the brackets on the other side to fix the workpiece properly. The advantage of this is that the workpiece is relative to the zero point at all time. This means that I can mass-produce the same product with the same result.
Do not forget to have e.g. a Masonite board underneath the workpiece so you do not cut into the table!