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SUMMER SALE! Raw 1.5 CNC “Do it yourself” kit 100x100cm with Racks and pinions

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Product Description

Raw 1.5 CNC “Do it yourself” kit 100x100cm with Racks and pinions for pro or hobby.

Please note that some of the options like “Ready-made electric box” is not avalible at the moment.

This machine is very strong compared to other DIY machines in this price range. The machine has steel reinforcements and quality parts and a real Z-axis construction. A complete Raw 1.5 100x100cm weighs between 40-50 kg and is not made of weak plastic parts and 6 mm thin timing belts.

Grow with your machine
Raw 1.5 can be upgraded to racks and sizes up to 180x130cm. Upgrade instructions are available on our website and upgrade packages are available as a separate product.

Steel Reinforcements
Raw is designed so you can reinforce your machine with steel to make it super strong. A steel bar for the X-axis is included in the kit. Reinforcements for the Y and A axles are not included in the kit and are not required for smaller machines. To reinforce the Y and A axis, you need a 40x40x4mm angle bar. Look at the drawings for instructions when you get your kit. The Y and A axis require reinforcements for machines longer than 100 cm. When the steel reinforcements are in place, a Raw 1.5 is so strong and robust that an full grown person can stand on the X axis while cutting.

Racks or timing belts?
A raw can handle both. This kit comes with a complete set of racks and high quality pinions  Racks are used for higher speeds and machines longer / wider than 100cm. If you require finer details, then timing belt is recommended. A rack machine is stronger and can take higher loads but does not have the same accuracy as timing belts. If you plan to cut wood, you won’t notice any difference between racks and timing belts.

Rack and pinion
A machine with a rack drive requires top quality gears. If you buy gears/pinions from various online stores, they will be in such poor quality that the machine sounds and vibrates. We have been searching for gears that are grinded 4 times or more and these are those we now include in your kit. The gears come from a Swedish company and are very expensive and not like the others you find out there. The rack, on the other hand, is usually the same everywhere. Even with good gears/pinions, a rack machine has a mechanical sound since it’s steel against steel without lubrication. The sound does not affect the cutting results.

What can i cut with a Raw 1.5
Soft wood, hardwood, particleboard, Mdf, plastic, aluminum, copper, 3D cutting, engraving and much more.

Whats included in this kit?
The kit contains everything needed depending on your choices. You need a spindle with inverter or a regular edge cutter from Bosh, Makita or Dewalt. You will find plenty of these on ebay.co.uk for example, search for 1.5kw air cooled spindle with inverter. These are shipped from Germany without any additional taxes. We sell these but have to add high import taxes, so buy them yourself and you will save alot of money.

Is it difficult to build the machine?
If you’re something handy, it’s not difficult at all, follow the video instructions as well as the illustrations. The electronics can seem daunting but it’s very simple, look at our video and you’ll see what it takes to assemble the electronics. Arduino electronics are like Lego and you only need to know how to solder wires. Drivers are a bit more complicated but not hard if you done something similar before. Look at our video over the electronics. We also have an option where we prepare all the cables and the electronics box so you only need to plug in the machine and start cutting.

Video instructions and illustrations

All steps are carefully documented with illustrations and video instructions. You will find all instructions on how to build the machine here: http://rawcnc.com/drawings-and-video-instructions-for-raw-1-5-cnc-diy-kit-100x100cm-with-timing-belts/

Is it difficult to operate the machine?
It’s always tricky to do something new but after cutting your first part you will understand how to do it. Once you know how to do it is very easy.

Below we list the different options. There is a lot to read and can look complicated but it’s easy. If you are confused or do not have the time to build a machine, we also sell assembled machines.

Different options (Click on the tabs)

A consumption or waste table is the table itself where you tighten the piece, and which is replaced occasionally if it is worn. You can cut your own table in 12mm Valchromat or regular MDF. If you include a table from us, steel clamps are included so you can easily fasten your piece. Save money by making it yourself or buy it from us. Everything is included, such as screw etc. Choose between plain MDF or black Valchromat.

Valchromat is a more durable MDF that is translucent. If you treat Valchromat with oil, it will become more or less waterproof and perfect as a table for a CNC machine that can get wet when you cut aluminum, for example.

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We use two types of electronics, a modern and a little older. The older driver version is better but requires an older computer with printer port. Read more below.

Arduino+CNC shield elektronics

Arduino with CNC shield is a simpler version of CNC electronics and can be used with any computer that has a USB port. These electronics has some limitations, such as handling multiple switches and zeroing plates found on our other machines. You can do well without these features if you only cut from time to time. Arduino cannot handle 2 switches at the same time, so it is not possible to calibrate the machine 90 degrees at startup, but it is easy to do it manually. It is usually this kind of electronics that comes with other DIY kits on the market.

CNC shield is not capable of having an advanced touch-off plate (Zeroing plate), so you have to start the machine from the surface of the material you cut, which is the way most people work anyway. Touch-off plate is a feature that is not needed, and you can do well without it. If you want a more advanced machine, look at Driver Electronics. You can also upgrade your electronics afterwards if you notice that you need a more advanced machine. Any upgrading requires upgrading of motors and other electronics.

Driver elektronics

Drivers with Breakout Board are the most professional electronics you can have for these types of machines. They are more expensive and require an older computer with printer port and 32Bit Windows operating system (if you run Mach3 software)

Some of the benefits of drivers are that the machine gets much stronger and has many more features like advanced touch-off plate (reset plate), calibration switches, on and off spindle, laser and plasma functions. The range of software is much larger and you can also use software that the industry uses.

If you choose Driver Electronics, you will be able to calibrate your machine so that it starts at 90-degree angle and you can also have an advanced touch off plate that we offer as a separate product or you can make your own. Read here what you need to run drivers electronics http://rawcnc.com/set-up-mach-3/

You can look at our website which drivers we use.

Driver elektronics with USB
We do not have this as a product and have not worked well when we tested. There are circuit boards where you can get the best of both worlds ie USB and Drivers. The problem we encountered is the same as with Arduino, it works ok but you cannot calibrate the machine 90 degrees and have an advanced touch-off plate. We continue to work on this and find a solution and we will inform you.

If you include electronics in your kit, we include a simple electronic box for the respective electronics. For Arduino, it means a bottom and a top with aluminum profiles as a frame. You can start with this box and then cut out a more advanced one if you want. The box is very simple so you get started and can move on from there.

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Drivers
Has a more advanced box with the possibility of having DIN connectors and power switch. We do not include DIN contacts and power switches in the basic package, but they can be purchased if you want it. You can do well without this and is only an option for anyone who wants it. The reason we do not include it is that it’s hard to solder DIN contacts and this is only for the advanced user. Power button cannot be included as we are not allowed to encourage non-electricians to connect strong current by law. See our video instructions for the respective electrotonic.

Ready-made electric box
We also have an option where you can choose a complete box with DIN connectors and power switches, see the ” Assembled electronic box” tab.

Electricity can seem scary if you are not used to it but it’s easy especially with illustrations, all electronics coming from the power supply is low current and not dangerous at all. You need to connect the power supply with a cable with your country standard plug and that is high current, please remember that and we do not take any responsibilities if something goes wrong. The only thing to keep in mind is to be careful and if you happen to break anything you have to buy new parts. We have no warranty on electrical components as it is beyond our control of how it is mounted.

If you do not have the time to assemble the electronics, then we can help you a bit along the way. We can manufacture the electronics box and solder all cables that are to be connected to the box itself. What you have to do is wire and attach the cables to the motors and switches. This is easy, and you do not risk breaking anything. The cables are cut to the correct length and marked.

What you need to do is follow the instructions on how to wire the cables, then cut the cable some to make it look nice and wire motors and switches. We also have support for this if you get stuck. The box is of ordinary MDF and not in Valchromat as the picture shows.

Save money by tapping the holes yourself. We charge for this because there are many holes (about 74) and time consuming for us to do this. It’s not hard and you can easily do it yourself. You need to have good thread taps like the ones we sell. Cheap taps will snap and it’s almost impossible to get them out of the holes, keep that in mind… Soak the taps in oil (regular cooking oil will do as well) for each hole. You can use an electronic screwdriver but go slowly and do not force the tap.

We do not paint plates anymore due to lack of time, but it’s easy to do yourself. Aluminum is also stylish as it is and can be brushed and primed. If you want to paint aluminum, first sand the plates and clean them from dirt and grease. Prime with aluminum primer and then spray on paint. We sell primer and our red “Raw” color on the website.

You need a spindle with inverter or a regular edge cutter from Bosh, Makita or Dewalt. You will find plenty of these on ebay.co.uk for example, search for 1.5kw air cooled spindle with inverter. These are shipped from Germany without any additional taxes. We sell these but have to add high import taxes, so buy them yourself and you will save alot of money.

Software for Arduino
You can download a demo version of Estlcam which is a very easy program to learn. With Estlcam you can cut in both 2D and 3D and the price of the software is very cheap compared to other software. You can use any software you want that supports Arduino and GRBL. Read more at www.estlcam.com. Read more on this page: http://rawcnc.com/how-to-cut-with-good-results/

Software for Drivers
For drivers we use a software called Mach3, there is also a newer version, Mach4, but the 3rd is sufficient. To set up your files, you can use Estlcam as mentioned above or a more professional program such as Vcarve. Read more on this page: http://rawcnc.com/set-up-mach-3/

Precision
Precision is a balance between the user and machine. It’s about how well your drawings are, spindle quality, spindle speed and how fast you cut. At normal speeds, the machine has a measured accuracy of about 1-2 / 10 mm. This machine is the result of many years of development. We have cut several thousand meters of material with machines like these and done it daily for many years. An aluminum machine cannot be compared to a 1-ton steel machine for 100000 Eur so do not have too high expectations. You should also not underestimate a machine like this. We have several large Swedish and foreign companies that cut with our machines in professional environments from cross country skis, hokey clubs, boats and car parts, speakers and aquarium manufacturing. We also have companies that have replaced their professional machines with ours since you can buy 50 machines like these at the price of one and if you only cut simple parts in wood, this machine is at least as good.

Who buys our machines and kits?
We have customers from all over the world from Asia to the United States and down to Africa. Those who buy our machines range from Hobbyists, companies, schools and institutions.

Payment, tax and delivery (Please read, important)
We accept bank payment and Paypal

As a EU member you need to pay Swedish tax of 25% if you don’t own a valid company. If you own a company, you will need to enter your VAT number at checkout and the tax will not be added to the price. We will check with the registry to see that you have a valid company, if not we will charge you the tax even after delivery.  If you have trouble at the check out, pleas untick the box for “Ship to a different address?” and try again.

Non EU members in Europe (Norway, Switzerland for example)
The tax is not added in our shop but you will be required to pay your tax at the border. Please contact your customs for more information.

Size: 1000x1000mm
Cutting area:
Width: 750mm, if you move the cable chain outside the machen or else its around 720mm
Length: 750mm
Clearence under the z-axis: aprox. 120mm

This package without extra contains (over 500 parts)

  • 2x 8mm side plates in Aluminum
  • 4x 6mm corner plates in Aluminum
  • 1x 6mm Z-Axle plate in Aluminum
  • 1x 6mm X-Axle plate in Aluminum
  • 3x 4mm steel plate
  • 3x 4mm ball bearing plates in steel

  • 20×40 aluminum profiles
  • 20×60 aluminum profiles
  • 20×80 aluminum profiles
  • Steel bar for the X-axis
  • Steel bars for u-track bearings
  • All screws in different sizes
  • All nuts in different sizes
  • All washers in different sizes
  • T-nuts
  • 4x block bearing 20mm
  • 4x axle support 20mm
  • 2x 20mm steel axles 32cm
  • 1x Delrin nut with anti-backlash function
  • 1 x trapezoidal screw 32cm
  • 16x high quality U-track bearings
  • bearings 8x22x7mm
  • 2x flange bearing 10mm
  • 1x coupling
  • Timing belts 15mm and steel reinforced or Racks Mod1
  • 3x pulleys or gears 15 teeth Mod1
  • 4-12 x spacers and screws depending on machine
  • 6x brackets
  • 6x Hole plates
  • Z-axis LEDs
  • Black Valchromat Consumption Table (Optional)

 

Electronics and box with cables (Arduino)

  • Cable Chains
  • Shielded cables 4 conductors for motors
  • Shielded cables 2 conductors for switches
  • 1x CNC Shield + UNO R3 Board + 4X DRV8825 Driver Kit
  • Power supply
  • 14x jumpers
  • 4x Nema 23 motors
  • 1x Electronics Box
  • 4 x switches
  • Dupont cables for Arduino

Electronics and box with cables (Drivers)

  • Cable Chains
  • Shielded cables 4 conductors for motors
  • Shielded cables 2 conductors for switches
  • 4x Drivers
  • Breakout board
  • 14.5A power supply
  • Printer Cable
  • 4x Nema 23 motors
  • 1x Electronics Box
  • 4 x switches

This is included in all machines with optional electronics package (compare with other manufacturers in the same price range)Strong Except 23 engines

  • Arduino or Driver Electronics
  • 15mm steel reinforced timing belts or MOD1 racks
  • High quality cable chains
  • Strong aluminum and steel plates up to 8mm in thickness
  • Ability to upgrade electronics
  • Ability to upgrade to rack drive
  • Ability to upgrade size up to 130x180cm
  • Ability to steel reinforce the A and Y axis
  • Steel reinforced X-axis
  • 100% steel bearings and steel parts and not plastic like other machines
  • A real Z-axis construction that can withstand real work. Our Z-axisis are expencive and of quality parts
  • Universal spindle holder for standard routers or spindles with about 65mm shaft
  • Shielded cables!
  • 4 Switches with cable depending on electronics
  • Led light for Z-axis with cable
  • support

To build the machine you need

  • A stable table at least 1x1m
  • Power screwdriver/drill
  • Drills 4-8mm
  • Thread pins 4.5.8 mm (Only if you want to thread the holes yourself)
  • Solder pen
  • A set of Torx keys
  • A set of hex keys
  • A set of screwdrivers
  • A set of wrenches or pliers

To operate the machine, you need (Arduino version):

  • A computer with USB ports
  • Software such as Estlcam
  • Software to draw (Inkscape and Google SketchUp are free)
  • A table of the same size as the machine. Make the table a little longer for the keyboard and the screen

To operate the machine you need (Driver Version):

  • Software such as Mach3
  • Software to draw (Inkscape and Google SketchUp are free)
  • A table of the same size as the machine. Make the table a little longer for the keyboard and the screen

 

Here is an example of the illustrations

Here is an example of the video instructions


Cutting aluminum with a standard router attached to the machine

15.000mm/min (racks version)

Raw 1.5 Aluminium cutting(Racks version)

Raw 1.5 Speed and strength test (rack version)

Cutting a fidget spinner (rack version)

 

Additional information

Electronics

No, Arduino, Drivers

Threaded holes

Yes, No

Waste table with Clamps

No, MDF, Valchromat

Assembled electronic box

Yes, No

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