Here you will find all instructions on how to build the Raw 1.5 machine. You can also look at all the exploded drawings that comes with the package to see how to build the machine. As a customer you will also get downloadable files with more instructions for each video and close ups. Download your files, The link is in the welcome letter, here you will find instructions for setting the spindle, autotool and much more that are very helpful when building the machine. There is also a complement file for some of the videos that are very helpfull.
For arduino users
If you have choosen Arduino as electronics you also need to look at the instructions on how to build a Raw S-70 that you find here: http://cncmaskiner.org/instruktioner-raw-s70/ But only when you reach Part 9. Then follow the Raw s-70 instruction Part 8-10. You will also find instructions on that page on how to setup the software. These two machines are almost the same exept for the right calibration switch that cant be used for Arduino. To set up Autotool for Arduino you need Estlcam software that has this function.
For detailed instructions of the electronicks you can go to this page
Raw 1.5 preparations
Thread instructions will be avalible in the download that comes with your package
Part 2 Raw 1.5 assemble the frame
Part 3 Raw 1.5 Y and X axis assemble
Please use a 3.2 or 3.5mm drill instead of a 3mm drill to fasten the Screws to the steel bar, apparently the screws snaps easily when the hole is too tight.
Part 4 Raw 1.5 The Z axis
Part 5 Raw 1.5 Miscellaneous parts and cable chain
Part 6 Raw 1.5 Timing belt (Go to Part 6 Racks and pinions below if you have a rack system)
Part 6 Racks and pinions (go to the video above if you have Timing belt as drive)
Part 7 Shielded Cables
Part 8 Switches and connections
Part 9 (Drivers)
Part 9: Connecting the Arduino card The videos below is for the Arduino card. Its done on another machine but the wiring is the same.
Note: If you are familiar with shrink hoses, use that instead of electric tape it’s both safer and better looking. Another tip is Cable Spiral Wrapping, that makes everything look better. All should be included in your kit
The thing you should look for in the first video is how we connect the RGB cables to the end of each motorcable, We will use them to connect the Arduino card. If you have a electronic box with DIN pluggs, then the RGB cables should be connected to the female plugs instead. Look at the video and you will understand. You can skipp the DIN plugs if you like, they are not necessary.
WARNING: When placing the small heatsinks on the drivers, make sure that they are in the center of the small chip. If the heatsink touches the small potentiometer or any other electric parts the card will be damaged
Setting up the software (Mach 3)
No video is required for this part, all machines are different and depending on which electronics you use, you must follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.
We use high quality drivers and the settings for these are available in your download. You can also use our preprogrammed setting file (Mach3Mill.xml) that you replace with it in the on in the Mach3 folder. All instructions are found in the download.
For arduino you will see everything you need in the link we refer to during the construction.
For Arduino, we recommend Estlcam as well as a 3D or 2D program like Google Sketch up or CorelDraw.
Drivers require 3 different softwares to run the machine, 3D or 2D software, a CAM software (set tools and depth, etc.) and a control program (Mach3 or4)
- 3D or 2D we recommend Google Sketch up or Corel draw. There are lots of options and everyone works as long as you can export your file to .DXF or .STL format.
- CAM software, we recommend Estlcam or the more expensive Vcarve.
- As control software, we recommend Mach3. Mach3 is enough and you do not need Mach4. We only have Mach3 settings so if you upgrade, so you must manually set Mach4.
Set Autotool, Spindle, and Homing functions.
We refer to our downloads where you will find everything you need. As a customer, you also have personal support, just contact us if something is unclear.
Now you need to learn how to cut with your machine, go to our artile pages and look at the instructions on how to cut and setup your tools. start with this link http://cncmaskiner.org/skara-ut-delar-fran-borjan-till-slut/
Back to School
We use so many different settings, belt, lead screw or racks in different sizes so I will put out a tutorial for you so that you can calculate this yourself.
If you use Arduino and GRBL the math is different to Estlcam or Mach3 for example, lets start with GRBL that asks for a PER mm number:
GRBL (Estlcam settings below this article but read this as well to understand what we are looking for)
A typical stepper motor has 200 steps PER revolution. These are known as FULL steps or 1.8° per step.
A Raw machine has a HDT3 or HTD5 timing belt which means that they have a pitch of 3mm or 5mm. Pitch is the distance between two tops or bottoms of the timing belt/racks or the distance between threads, if you use leadscrew as we do for the Z-axis.
If you want to calculate a leadscrew then the math is simple just add the pitch of the leadscrew 3mm and divide it with 200 (stepr per revolution) and the number we will put as a value in GRBL (The settings in GRBL call for a PER mm number) for example is:
200/3 = 66,66666666666667 steps to make something travel 1mm
For timing belt we need to calculate how many teeth the pulley has and multiply it with 3 or 5 depending on the pitch, so for a 5mm pitch and 15 teeth (5×15) , then it will travel 75mm/rev
So the math is :
200/75= 2,666666666666667 steps to make something travel 1mm
Micro stepping (Estlcam for exampl
CNC shield with the A4988 Drivers uses 1/16 micro stepping when all jumpers are activated , which means each step is divided into 16 microsteps.
A typical stepper motor has 200 steps PER revolution.
200 steps x16 micro steps = 3200 total steps/rev So the value “steps per revolution” in Estlcam is 3200. If you use other drivers that has 32 micro steps that value would be: 200 steps x32 = 6400.
“Distance per revolution” is what your machine will travel per revolution so for a HTD5 belt (5mm pitch) with a pulley that has 15 teeth that distance would be 15×5=75mm
-HTD3 with a pitch of 3mm would be 15×3=45mm
-Lead screw with a pitch of 3mm will travel 3mm per rev and that would be 3mm
The same math applies for Mach 3 but we need to extend it some more
Mach3 or other software’s asks for how many steppes it takes for something to move 1mm, so let’s do the math with the lead screw that has a pitch of 3mm (it travels 3mm per rev) We use 16 micro steps setting on the drivers for the z-axis so the math is basically,
1600/3 = 533,3333333333333 steps to make something move 1mm (again, if your thread is different, then the divider number will be different)
533,3333333333333 is the number I put into Mach.