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Hello, yes you can fasten them in a easier way too, the clamps are hard to find especially if you live outside Europe so we have come up with an alternative metod where you glue the shafts with silicon directly in to the slot. Just degreease all parts and glue them in the slot, works very well.11 January, 2018 at 11:20 in reply to: Please reconsider your stance on selling plates / BOM / drawings #3769
We will start to sell machines and parts tomorrow (Friday) with a 2 week delivery time.30 December, 2017 at 16:54 in reply to: Please reconsider your stance on selling plates / BOM / drawings #3675
I will decide on what to do in the beginning of the next year, the store is closed for now and will be for a while untill i know what to do…
22 December, 2017 at 16:21 in reply to: Please reconsider your stance on selling plates / BOM / drawings #3601
- This reply was modified 3 weeks ago by Janne.
Hello, I need to change the way i sell this machine due to support etc. When i sell plates and boom list i get so much support that it’s impossible to handle. At one-point i got over 100 e-mails a day from Canada all the way to Thailand and i stopped answering them and now most of my customer thinks im ignorant. When i sell plates i don’t make much money and money is not what drives me but that much support for so less is not a good business model. By selling machines like the rest of the market (shapeko, x-carve etc) is much easier and i can handle the support and give good support instead of what is was.
I have made the machine in a way that when you buy the cheapest version, like the one we have now then you have almost all parts needed to upgrade to bigger machines. There is not much money involved in these machines, they are extremely expensive to build and stock and i can barely make a living on them.
So not much has changed, i sold plates and parts before and i still do but in bigger packages and to a competitive price, you can still build the larger EXTENDED model by changing the profiles and the instructions are 100% free. All of you who has been around for a while already have the .dxf files but many of you won’t be able to cut them cheaper than i sell them along with the other parts since i buy them in bulk, so buying the basic model and then upgrade will not be too expensive, I don’t charge much for the parts it’s the work I put in to each machine I charge for.
I don’t want to raise any prices, I don’t want to sell a lot of parts like a retailer, I want to give good support for each machine, this is my project and I love it. I also don’t want to sell bigger machines than the basic model.
Even if i stop offering technical support i will still get it, i can’t hardly start my chat function on the site without standing in front of the computer for at least an hour. Don’t get me wrong, I love what I do and sometimes I think I have the best job on the planet but when I get too much to do its tough.
Let me just take a few steps back and i will figure something out, i need to rethink the whole project without wearing myself out.
Anyone who is interested can fork the machine, but for me, i have been there and i can’t handle the support, im sorry for that.
Hello, you cant add any more axis motors on the Arduino solution we use (cnc shield) but with drivers you can add up to 6 motors or axis. Im sure there is other Arduino, or GRBL solutions that can do that. What ever you choose, you only need to change the actual card.
Hello, its standard EN AW-5083 H111 aluminum
Hello, no they are made of Aluminum. Steel is way too heavy to ship and as many of you know the packages arrives in 1000 pieces. The steel plates weights around 25 kilos and we can’t ship that so we have chosen 8mm thick aluminum for the side plates and 4-6mm for the other plates and that is very robust too.
Wow, thanks for the detailed instructions, and as you mention the steel support is not needed for machines under 100cm but to be honest i would add it to, you can’t make a machine to strong. Also to all of you out there, you can also fill the profiles with epoxy or concrete to make it super strong. DIN plugs are really small and hard to solder, but if you are born in the 70’s as i am it´s pretty standard and that how we wired Audio back in the 80’s 🙂
Mach 3 might seem old fashion but it’s the best software there is when you learn it. Modern USB software don’t have all the features as Mach3 has like calibration switches etc.
Also, about the cable chain. You can place the cable chain outside the machine but then it has to be fixed to the table like other machines, so it’s optional.
I dont have the settings right now but if you download this file you can just replace the file in your Mach3 folder and the machine will work right away: http://cncmaskiner.org/Mach%203%20settings%20file.zip
but its only for mach 3. If you use mach 4 then download a demo of mach3 and add the file then just copy the settings to Mach 4 manually.
Hi, yes if the racks are MOD1 and the gears 16teeth then the specs would be the same no matter what version of Mach you use. I have noticed that different software’s asks for different calculations and i have lost track of it all but here is a guide that a wrote a few months ago:
GRBL (Estlcam settings below this article but read this as well to understand what we are looking for)
A typical stepper motor has 200 steps PER revolution. These are known as FULL steps or 1.8° per step.
A Raw machine has a HDT3 or HTD5 timing belt which means that they have a pitch of 3mm or 5mm. Pitch is the distance between two tops or bottoms of the timing belt/racks or the distance between threads, if you use leadscrew as we do for the Z-axis.
If you want to calculate a leadscrew then the math is simple just add the pitch of the leadscrew 3mm and divide it with 200 (stepr per revolution) and the number we will put as a value in GRBL (The settings in GRBL call for a PER mm number) for example is:
200/3 = 66,66666666666667 steps to make something travel 1mm
For timing belt we need to calculate how many teeth the pulley has and multiply it with 3 or 5 depending on the pitch, so for a 5mm pitch and 15 teeth (5×15) , then it will travel 75mm/rev
So the math is :
200/75= 2,666666666666667 steps to make something travel 1mm
Micro stepping (Estlcam for exampl
CNC shield with the A4988 Drivers uses 1/16 micro stepping when all jumpers are activated , which means each step is divided into 16 microsteps.
A typical stepper motor has 200 steps PER revolution.
200 steps x16 micro steps = 3200 total steps/rev So the value “steps per revolution” in Estlcam is 3200. If you use other drivers that has 32 micro steps that value would be: 200 steps x32 = 6400.
“Distance per revolution” is what your machine will travel per revolution so for a HTD5 belt (5mm pitch) with a pulley that has 15 teeth that distance would be 15×5=75mm
-HTD3 with a pitch of 3mm would be 15×3=45mm
-Lead screw with a pitch of 3mm will travel 3mm per rev and that would be 3mm
The same math applies for Mach 3 but we need to extend it some more
Mach3 or other software’s asks for how many steppes it takes for something to move 1mm, so let’s do the math with the lead screw that has a pitch of 3mm (it travels 3mm per rev) We use 16 micro steps setting on the drivers for the z-axis so the math is basically,
1600/3 = 533,3333333333333 steps to make something move 1mm (again, if your thread is different, then the divider number will be different)
533,3333333333333 is the number I put into Mach.
- This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by Janne.
Hi, yes, the Y switch can work alone or together with the A switch. If you have two switches (Arduino don’t support this) then you can calibrate the machine to be 90 degrees when homing which is a very handy function. If you have two switches they control one motor each and you can move any of the switches to set your machine to be 90 degrees up on homing.
If you use two switches, then you need to change the code in the “Edit button script” setting to:
Which means, take home Z-axis then X and then Y and A simultaneously but separate from each other.
If you have Arduino for example that can’t handle two switches at the same time you can only use one switch on the Y axis. You can still use the code above but you need to go in to Mach3 general config and make sure that “Home Slave with Master Axis” is ticked, then the Y switch will work alone.
Hello Ali, we are working on the new products and if all goes well it will be avalible in the middle of December. We need to sort some things out since we would like to reach out to users outside Europe. But keep an eye on Face book and we will anounce when the kits are avalible again.
Thank you Max 🙂